Things you learn when you live in Senegal

5 things you learn right away

• ‘That sound’ is the call to prayer. Five times a day. It will become the background music to this stage of your life.
• ‘That smell’ is incense. Or garbage. Or fish market. But probably all three.
• ‘That hand gesture’ means slow down, I’m going to cross the street here in front of your moving vehicle.
• ‘That feeling’ is your skin frying in the sun.
• ‘That thing’ in his mouth is a chew stick, a traditional toothbrush.

5 things you figure out quickly

• The going rate is probably half the first price given. Bargaining is expected.
• Making balls of rice to pop in your mouth as the oil runs downs your arm.
• Power cuts happen.
• How to say, “I have a husband.” in Wolof.
• Attaya packs a mean caffeine punch.

5 things you pick up along the way

• Tying a wrap skirt so that it stays on, but loose enough to walk in.
• The urge to shake people’s hand every time you walk into a room.
• Dressing more modestly.
• A more relaxed attitude about being on time, but higher value on time spent with people.
• Giarrdia.

5 things you never fully master

• Walking with the elegance and fluidity of a Senegalese person.
• Fluency in four local languages, like everyone else.
• Dancing like THAT.
• Making ceebu jenn as wonderfully as the woman who taught you.
• Explaining life in Senegal to someone who’s never been here.